Portugal Climbing & Trip

KACUVANJE I SETANJE NIZ PORTUGAL SEPT-OCT 2010

CLIMBING & TRIP AROUNDPORTUGAL SEPT-OCT 2010

(Short English below)

Minatiot mesec prekrasni dve nedeli pominavme vo podobro zapoznavanje so

predizvikuvackata Portugalija. Deset dena karpi + pet dena setanje i omor = odlicen soodnos za dobar pomin vo nepoznata okolija.

Posetivme povekje kacuvacki lokaliteti vo centralniot i juzniot del na Portugalija i zavisno od vremeto se zadrzuvavme po 2-3 dena..

Sessimbra- se naogja na 1h vozenje jugozapadno od Lisbon. Ima triesetina oklinceni sportski nasoki so tezina od 4 – 8a, i visina do 20m. Karpata e varovnik so dosta pesteri, gole

mi previsi, a nasokite se cesto podceneti pri ocenuvanjeto.

Sessimbra e ribarsko gradce i turisticki atraktivno osobeno vo letnata sezona. Raspolaga so odlicni plazi, bogata tradicija, kultura i istorija. Bogato e so slucuvanja i nastani od sportsko – kulturna priroda. Za srekja nie prestojuvavme za vreme na niskata sezona taka sto izbegnavme guzvi i neprirodni turisticki

navali.

Sagres – Po nekolku dena vo Sesimbra od lokalni kacuvaci slusnavme za gradceto Sagres kako raj za kacuvanje so stotici nasoki. Odlucivme da go posetime. Do nego se stiga za 4

-5h vozenje od Lisbon. Se naogja na naj jugozapadniot del od Portugalija, a tockata Cabo St. Vincente do 15 vek se smetala za “kraj na svetot”. Od tamu pa se do Amerikanskiot kontinent nema nisto osven Atlantskiot okean. Celiot juzen i zapad

en breg na Portugalija vprocem e sostaven od ogromni karpesti bregovi koi vo visina na

dminuvaat 50 m. Vo okolinata na Sagres ima povekje lokaliteti i sektori so razlicen tip na nasoki. Pogolem del od nasokite se kacuvaat vo tradicionalen stil, i najcesto do niv se stignuva so abzeluvanje od sidristata postaveni po ivicata na vrvot od grebenot. Se trgnuva od polica nekade vo dnoto na karpata ili od camec. Vo ovaa okolina ima i golem

izbor za “Deep Water Solo” nasoki, no imajte predvid deka zavisno od mesecot okeanot moze da bide mnogu studen.

Nie najmnogu kacuvavme vo sportski opremen sektor koj se naogja na 6 km zapadno od Sagres vo blizina na r’tot Cabo Vincente. Tamu imavme na raspolaganje 30tina nasoki so ocena od 5-7c, so visina do 15m.

Sintra – Po nekolku dena kacuvanje vo Sagres, vremeto pocna da se zatvara i dobivme najava za doagjanje na silna bura. Tie momenti se mnogu inspirativni za fotografite bidejki branovite bukvalno gi goltaat karpite dostignuvajki visina do 40m. Togas go pomianavme skoro cel juzen breg, a prestojuvavme vo gradceto Lagos poznato po svojot Arapski stil, koj e vrezan vo arhitekturata niz povekje Portugalski gradovi. Juznata oblast Algarve e poznata i za razni morski avanturi gnjurenje, surf na veter i na branovi, sportski ribolov, pesocni skulpturi i sl.

Potoa povtorno trgnavme na sever, vo gradceto Sintra- zapadno od Lisbon. Ovoj predel pripagja na nacionalen park, inaku istoriski

mnogu znacaen so svoite tvrdini, zamoci i palati. Ovde vidlivo se gleda nekogashniot aristokratski zivot denes atraktiven za turisti.

Pod glavniot ”Murs

ki zamok” ima ogromni granitni bolderi i visoki karpi opremeni za tradicionalno i sportsko kacuvanje. Toa e eden od kacuvackite lokaliteti vo voj reon, kade se naogjaat retkite/edinstvenite granitni lokaliteti vo Portugalija, so oceni od 5 – 8 ? i visina do 15tina m.

Cscais – Poslednata destinacija na pat kon Lisbon bese Cascais – pop

ularno “bogatashko” mesto so luksuzni vili, hoteli i brojni turisticki atrakcii. Cascais e spoen do gradot Estoril i se naogja na skoro 1h. zapadno od Li

sbon.

Ovde e locirano edno od kacuvackite skoli na Portugalija i e dosta poseteno od lokalni kacuvaci. Sektorot Gua imase vkupno 96 oklinceni nasoki za sportsko kacuvanje so oceni od 3- 8?, i visina do 15tina m. I ovde pominavme 3 dena adaptirajki se na primorskite karpi koi konstantno se eksponirani na bura i na morski branovi i redovno se mokri nautro.

Portugalcite i onie koi gi otvaraat i gi odrzuvaat nasokite se mnogu vredni. Nasokite se cisti a klinovite i sidristata redovno obnovuvani. Ovoj kacuvacki raj ima kapacitet uste za mnogu pogolem razvoj na ovie sportovi.

Vkupno kacuvacki denovi: 10

Vkupno iskaceni nasoki: okolu 50

Prosecna visina: 10m

Prosecna ocena: 6b

Last month we spent two beautiful weeks meeting closely with the all-inclusive challenging Portugal. We’ve spent 10 days on rock and 5 days resting, excellent ratio for good fun in unknown area. We visited climbing localities in central and south art of Portugal and depending of the weather we stayed 2-3 days in each.

Sessimbra – Situated South West, on 1h drive from Lisbon it is a traditional fishing village with beautiful powder sand beaches. Around 30 bolted routes on old limestone. Lots of caves, up to 20m overhangs and bouldering areas. Grades from 4 to 8?.

Sagres – Furthest South West point of Portugal, with the markant light house on Cabo St. Vincete facing the open Atlantic, it was considered to be “The end of the world” until 15^th century. The entire Southern and Western Portuguese cost is formed of steep cliffs with up to 40m altitude. It is the absolute climbing un spoiled paradise with lots of potential for traditional and sport climbing. Most of the routes start from the sea or a ledge just above it. The access is usually with an abseil line from anchors on top. A huge choice for deep water solo routes- for the ones who can support the Atlantic temperature out of summer season. We spent more time in a sport climbing developed sector on 6km west from Sagres with around 30 bolted routes graded from 5 to 7c up to 15 m high.

Sintra – Beautiful mountainous region in a national park area, 40 min drive west of Lisboa. Rich tradition and culture with amazing aristocratic architecture of villas and Moorish castles.

One of the rare Granite climbing localities in Portugal with boulders, traditional and sport routes up to 15m high graded from 5 - 8?

Cascais – The last destination on the way back to Lisbon. Cascais and Estoril – ex fishing villages, today main high class tourist destinations. Lots of climbing sectors with diverse difficulty grades. In the place Gua is situated on of the Portugese climbing school, often visited from local climbers. Total 96 equiped routes from 3-8? And many unfinished projects. Here we spent another 3 climbing days adapting on the wet solty rock constantly exposed on sea waves.

All the routes are well equipped, clean and maintained with regular Topo updates, change of bolts and anchors. Still Portugal offers a lot more climbing capacity, looking forward to be developed.

Total days climbing: 10

Total routes climbed: around 50

Average hight: 10m

Average grade: 6b

Ilina & Ilija